Yoshiyuki Miyamae’s Spring Summer 2018 collection for Issey Miyake began not in the studio but in the landscapes of Iceland. His expedition across the country’s glaciers, lava fields, and moss-covered plains became the foundation for the collection and inspired a study of how fabric could behave like terrain. The result was not a literal translation of scenery but an attempt to capture nature’s rhythm, where garments appeared to rise, ripple, and shift as if responding to wind and light.

Miyamae’s team approached the collection as an experiment in topographical design. Drawing on techniques such as steam-stretch and baked-stretch pleating, they treated textiles as living materials capable of transformation. Surfaces were sculpted to recall fissures in volcanic rock or the soft irregularity of moss, while lightweight fabrics were engineered to hold form without stiffness. These innovations reflected Miyamae’s belief that technology should serve nature rather than attempt to control it.

The presentation itself reinforced this harmony between environment and motion. Models and dancers shared the stage, their movements activating the textures and volumes of the clothing. Funnel-neck dresses, wide trousers, shell tops, and capes expanded and contracted in rhythm with the body, demonstrating how the fabrics responded to movement like natural elements shifting in the wind. Prints combined stripes, checks, and abstract shapes to echo geological layers and the meeting of earth and sky.

This runway sample wrap shorts, titled Spectrum, appeared in the final look (44) of the collection. Its angular black-and-white zebra stripes are punctuated by green accents, with an adjustable waist that allows the piece to flow and fold in motion.

Measurements:

Waist 39cm
Front rise 27cm
Inseam 11cm
Leg opening 34cm