Undercover's Spring Summer 1996 'Under The Cover' was Jun Takahashi's 4th collection presentation in Tokyo. Rather than staging a conventional runway show, the collection was unveiled through a Fangoria style publication photographed by Kyoji Takahashi. More than a lookbook, it documented the collection's entire creative process through concept sketches, character designs, behind-the-scenes photography, and the finished editorial. The publication was later released alongside a VHS and T-shirt in a limited blister-pack edition of just 1,500 copies.
Under The Cover is one of the earliest instances where we get to witness Jun Takahashi's immersive approach to world building through clothes. Inspired by 1980s horror cinema and the music of White Zombie and Ministry, the collection was set in what he calls the "All New Horrorama Show," an editorial shot in a fictional white "imaginary hall" inhabited by grotesque, biomechanic creatures.
To fully realize his vision, Takahashi travelled from Japan to Los Angeles to collaborate with legendary Japanese special effects artist Screaming Mad George, whose practical effects helped shape the visuals of 1980s horror cinema. Together, they created grotesque prosthetic headpieces with highly detailed mono eye, distorted anatomy, and biomechanical steampunk features. Paired with elongated hair-like appendages, and white base makeup, they bear an uncanny resemblance to the Cenobites from Clive Barker's Hellraiser and the Yautja from Predator.
Beyond the elaborate headpieces and make up, the garments referenced institutional 'asylum' uniforms and protective clothing, with looks reminiscent of restraints, straitjackets, security mitts, lab coats, gas masks, and industrial workwear. In true Takahashi fashion, military influences, utilitarian details, and punk motifs (leather and skulls) were also incorporated throughout the collection.
One of the most iconic and sought-after accessories from this collection is this classic Leather Ammo Belt, which references a vintage Swedish military bandolier from WWI. It features the all-over skull motif camo as lining and is fitted with a replacement 60s Japanese square brass buckle hand sourced by our team in Japan.