One of Undercover’s most sought-after and prolific contemporary collections, Spring/Summer 2016’s “Evil Clown” stands as a hallmark of Jun Takahashi’s craft.

The collection reclaimed notions of “ugliness” and subverted traditional femininity, pushing into anti-commercial territory with a darkly theatrical edge. It arrived at a time when fashion was leaning into the wave of a broader clowncore movement that several other designers were also beginning to explore.

“Evil Clown” drew heavily from theatrical and historical costume, blending Victorian ruffled collars with punk-inflected deconstruction. The Pierrot archetype loomed large throughout the show, reinterpreted through a lens of rebellion rather than innocence. The clown, often viewed as a symbol of both humor and horror, became a vessel for commentary on identity, discomfort, and the absurdity of fashion itself.

Models donned outfits that combined rigid tailoring with soft, theatrical detailing. Structured coats were layered over frilled blouses, boxy suiting was paired with ruffled skirts, and sharply pointed patent boots appeared in vivid primary colors. Deconstructed garments were styled in deliberately disheveled ways, with hanging ribbons, exposed fastenings, and asymmetric cuts. Accessories like sculptural castle-shaped bags and horned headbands became some of the most coveted Undercover pieces to date.

This shirt, from Look 12 of the collection, features ribbons lining the edges of the shirt, allowing the wearer to adjust and manipulate its shape and drape. The cuffs and collar are fastened with intricately molded flower-shaped buttons.

Measurements:

Length 89cm

Shoulders 39cm

PTP 57cm

Hem 56cm