Clothing that feels less like fabric and more like living skin set the tone for Boris Bidjan Saberi’s Spring Summer 2015 collection. Titled Symbiosism, the season was a study in how garments can behave like organic extensions of the body, shaping, shielding, and mutating with movement.
Drawing from Bundeswehr military gear, Saberi transformed utilitarian references into a vocabulary of layered textures and adaptive silhouettes. Fibrous jerseys, textured cottons, scratched vegetable-tanned leathers, and layered nets combined to create a tactile landscape that feels both engineered and alive, mimicking musculature beneath the skin.
In this collection, tailoring becomes mutable. Removable-lining parkas, shoulder-slit shirts for ventilation, backpack vests, and hand-dyed overalls demonstrate his commitment to adaptability and practicality. These details were not added as mere visual flourishes but as functional responses to the realities of movement, wear, and protection. Structural innovations such as zippers that reveal hidden mesh linings, anatomical open seams, taped seams on unlined jackets, and meshing yokes reinforce the idea of clothing as, in Saberi’s words, a “second skin.”
Grounding this experimental narrative is a palette of sand-worn beiges, toasted greys, brick browns, and shaded greens. These earthy tones do more than decorate; they mimick camouflage. Aligning the wearer with natural terrain and reinforcing the theme of body and environment in symbiosis. It is a deliberate shift away from the stark monochromes typically tied to artisanal avant garde clothing.
This pair of J Cut Denim received the same vinyl-processed, object-dyed treatment like the garments in this collection. The J Cut is one of Saberi’s staple silhouettes, marked by its asymmetric and curved rise that wraps the legs like the letter “J”. Each pair is handcrafted through multiple stages of experimentation, making no two pieces alike.
Tagged Size L
Measurements:
Waist 41cm
Length 117cm
Front rise 27cm
Inseam 84cm
Thighs 20cm
Hem 16cm