Yohji Yamamoto’s interest in working with a sportswear company began in the early 2000s, during a period when he felt his work had become too distant from the pace and needs of everyday life. This realization led him to explore blending high fashion with athletic design long before such crossovers became common. In 2001, his womenswear collections began showing subtle athletic cues, hinting at a desire to engage with a brand whose identity was rooted in movement, performance, and street culture.

Yohji tasked his assistant with contacting Adidas to borrow "three-stripe" sneakers for his AW01 show and was pleasantly surprised when Adidas agreed. By 2001 and 2002, the two had already begun collaborating. Early collaborative footwear appeared on the runway, including models that integrated Adidas technology into Yamamoto’s aesthetic of restraint and fluidity. These pieces signaled an emerging dialogue between Yamamoto and Adidas, and both parties recognized the potential to develop a more structured, long-term collaboration.

This partnership grew into Y3, which was formally launched in 2003. The idea was straightforward but radically executed: Yohji would design, Adidas would provide technical innovation, and together they would create a new category that treated sportswear as a site for luxury and sports-tech experimentation. Y3 established the template for modern athletic fashion, offering clothing that was highly functional without losing conceptual clarity, while positioning Adidas as a leader in high-design collaborations.

Within this timeline, the Spring/Summer 2002 womenswear collection holds an important place. It acted as a bridge between Yamamoto’s mainline explorations and the forthcoming identity of Y3. The show combined athletic bodysuits, cropped performance-inspired jackets, and sculptural skirts with the designer’s familiar use of drape and deconstruction. Elements of Adidas appeared through footwear and subtle sports cues.

This beautiful pair of Adidas Prajna Highs was designed for boxing and wrestling. Seen on the runway, it features intricate floral panelling on the toe box and insole, as well as Yohji Yamamoto embroidery on the three stripes.