Comme des Garçons Spring Summer 2002 “Ethnic Couture” was a study in innocence and contradiction. Rei Kawakubo filled the runway with playful motifs such as pug prints, oversized numerals, and ruffled trims, yet delivered them with the rigor of couture. At first glance, the collection leaned into kawaii sweetness, but beneath the charm was a sharp critique of convention. Kawakubo questioned both what “ethnic” and “couture” might mean, offering her own answer through humor and subversion.

The materials carried much of this tension. Cotton pieces were printed with bold numbers, skirts were patterned with dogs, and papier-mâché headpieces made from newsprint turned models into fragile, Pierrot-like dolls. By setting these childlike elements against refined fabrics, Kawakubo blurred the line between costume and clothing, allowing whimsy to hold conceptual weight.

Compared to her more structural seasons, SS02 worked with a lighter touch. Silhouettes remained soft, trousers were cut loose, and tailoring was understated. Rather than reshaping the body, Kawakubo relied on contrast to define the collection: playful motifs paired with disciplined construction. The result was dreamlike.

This wrap skirt, shown in Look 9, features deliberate pleats and floral cutouts.

Tagged OS

Measurements:

Strap length 239cm

Skirt length 77cm