With David Lynch’s films as its main reference point, Raf Simons’ Autumn/Winter 2019 collection reads like a cinematic essay on Blue Velvet and Wild at Heart. The show translated the Lynchian mood into clothing, treating garments as wearable fragments of cinema rather than direct statements. Dim lighting and a brooding soundtrack heightened its filmic quality, giving the presentation the atmosphere of a Lynch scene unfolding in real time. Staged in Paris shortly after Simons’ departure from Calvin Klein, the collection marked a return to his own visual language of youth and introspection.

At its core was a confident return to voluminous coatmaking, from broad-shouldered, double-breasted coats to long overcoats and roomy parkas. Trousers and pullovers followed this logic, maintaining an architectural yet relaxed form. This created a quiet militaristic undertone throughout the collection, tying back to Simons’ recurring themes of youth, rebellion, and conformity, where uniforms become tools of resistance rather than obedience.

Material treatments further reinforced this associative approach. Simons paired traditional winter wools with leather and corduroy, giving each look a heightened sense of tactility. Muted blacks, greys, and beiges were punctuated by flashes of red, pink, and leopard print, while collaged photographs, stitched text, and small floral charms deepened the visual dialogue. Together, these details mirrored the dualities in Lynch’s worlds, where beauty and unease exist concurrently.

The headwear tied the narrative together. Models wore double-layered, helmet-shaped caps with a soft structure that suggested both utility and vulnerability. The contrast between their military undertone and the refined tailoring beneath created a compelling visual tension. This distinctive double-layer cap appeared in looks 18 and 20, standing out as one of the collection’s defining accessories.

Tagged Size O/S

Measurements:
Diameter 18cm