Kris Van Assche entered Dior Homme in 2001 under Hedi Slimane and when he took control over the creative helm six years later there were big boots to fill and scrutiny was intense. In 2011, KVA loosened the rigid, ultraslim black garments that Slimane is known for with a gentler, more fluid direction of menswear without abandoning the house's tailored foundation.

The Autumn Winter 2011 collection sees Van Assche doubling down on recalibrating classic menswear while retaining the fluidity from SS11. Drawing on the technical expertise of the Dior Atelier, Van Assche challenged the assumption that winter dressing required heaviness or stiffness. Double faced cashmere coats, elongated robes, thin lapel blazers, fine gauge knitwear, and wide wool trousers created silhouettes that sat away from the body while remaining sharp. The result was a wardrobe that prioritised ease and drape, extending the fluidity from summer into the colder months.

The ideas were distilled further through "Enfold/Unfold", a fashion short film directed by Willy Vanderperre. Rather than documenting the runway, the film functioned as a nuanced, conceptual extension. Using movement to articulate the collection’s core themes of containment and release.

Seen in almost every look along with a wingtip variant, these beautiful lace up ankle boot is constructed from supple leather and features a springy crepe sole.