Junya Watanabe’s Autumn/Winter 2010 womenswear collection was a study where militaria met the romance of history. Staged in Paris with a gospel choir soundtrack, the show opened on a tone of redemption and softness that framed the clothes not as harshly militant, but as human and poetic. 

At the heart of the season were the skirts. Watanabe played with volume and movement, sending out pleated, flounced, and accordion-structured forms that seemed to burst into swishy fullness below the waist. Their fluidity offered relief from the stricter tailoring above, where we see uniforms silhouettes and workwear fabrics such as parkas, MA-1 flight jackets, and camouflage cloth.

Texture and materiality deepened the dialogue. Padded parkas and reconstructed blazers were juxtaposed with ribbed knit dresses trimmed in detachable fur, boned jackets recalling Victorian construction, and silk knee-length dresses that introduced a sense of grace. The palette leaned on army greens, browns, and camouflage shades, softened by flashes of cream. Styling heightened the theatrical effect with fur-lined bonnets, elaborate collars, and cloud-like hair.

What made the season especially resonant was its accessibility. For all the historical references and dramatic volumes, the collection carried a striking wearability for the autumn winter season. This quality revealed Watanabe’s rare ability to transform the language of uniforms and history into clothes that spoke of both strength and tenderness.

This elongated cape-like parka features an oversized houndstooth front set against a smooth military nylon base. Pockets double as armholes, while a fur-lined panel fastens at the neck with a single button for additional protection against the cold.

Tagged Size S

Measurements:

Shoulder: 45cm

Length: 77cm