Margiela’s first collection without Martin. 

The Autumn Winter 2009 Maison Martin Margiela menswear show stands as a defining example of the house’s studio-led era, presented after Martin Margiela had withdrawn from active involvement and ahead of his formal departure announcement in October 2009. Authored by the anonymous in-house design team, the collection adhered strictly to the systems and conceptual rigor Margiela had embedded into the brand over two decades.

The show was presented in a police lineup format, with models holding name placards and positioned against height-measurement walls, rotating between frontal and profile views. A detached, authoritative voice then announced each look numerically.

Rather than relying on overt deconstruction, the collection emphasized proportion, materiality, and contextual framing. The clothes reflected a controlled approach to menswear. Tailoring was sharp but understated, silhouettes were linear, and surface treatments such as trompe l’oeil, fake rain droplets, subtle patterning, and textural effects added complexity and tactility without excess.

This pair of jeans is a reprise of the iconic white painted denim, featuring a white flocked trompe l’oeil surface that closely resembles the original white paint finish.

Tagged Size S

Measurements:
Waist 38cm
Front rise 24cm
Inseam 82cm
Leg opening 17cm
Thighs 25cm
Knee 19cm