Jun Takahashi recently coined his Autumn Winter 2004 collection, titled "But Beautiful… Part Parasitic, Part Stuffed", as his magnum opus. Today, we take a look back at his But Beautiful series that spans decades.

By 2004, Takahashi's design language was already fully formed, evident in his ability to construct narrative driven collections and spectacular world-building. He attributes this to his mentor, Rei Kawakubo, who recognized his work in the 1990s and helped him transition into Paris.

Shifting away from the raw and aggressive tone of his previous seasons, But Beautiful adopts a quieter, more emotionally resolved approach. Built around Takahashi’s imagined image of Patti Smith, models walked down the runway in soft, sculptural garments heavily inspired by Anne-Valérie Dupond’s plush, misshapen figures. Seams are deliberately exposed, and buttons multiply in number and size. Takahashi binds together mismatched fabrics and materials to create wearable, life-sized Dupond-like stuffed forms.

Takahashi never allowed But Beautiful to remain fixed in 2004. Instead, it evolved into a long-running series that he continues to revisit, beginning with its immediate extension in SS05 titled "But Beautiful II… Homage to Jan Svankmajer" and AW06 "But Beautiful V… Guruguru", before re-emerging decades later in AW17 "But Beautiful III… Utopie". 

For Undercover’s 35th anniversary, Takahashi revisits But Beautiful with two more decades of experience, presenting But Beautiful 4 for Autumn Winter 2025. (And we got But Beautiful 4.5 one season later in 2026...)

Seen on look 9 of AW04, these deconstructed pinstripe trousers features mismatched button fly, oversized stuffed buttons, polka dot lining, and an embroidered lightning bolt on the left knee, a direct ode to Patti Smith's tattoo. 

Tagged Size S

Measurements:
Waist 35cm 
Thighs 23cm
Knees 20cm
Leg Opening 21cm
Front Rise 20cm
Inseam 79cm