Presented in a hand held, run and gun home video style, the Maison Martin Margiela Autumn Winter 2003 menswear collection adopts a “what are you wearing” interview format in which models take on an “I do not really care” attitude while explaining their outfits to the lens. Rather than aiming for spectacle, the collection focused on the idea of a lived in wardrobe that gained character through wear, alteration and repair.

Reconstruction techniques were central to the season. Many garments featured mismatched panels, visible seams and offset buttons. Models donned artisanal waistcoats transformed from corduroy coats, dinner jackets and leather jackets and layered them with trompe l’oeil photo tees and jackets spliced from several different materials. The differences in material weight created a heightened sense of unfamiliar familiarity at first glance.

Martin’s ongoing obsession with military and utilitarian garments appeared throughout the season, with each look incorporating some form of militaria such as high gauge knits, pinstripe slacks, trench coats or duffle toggles.

The palette was restrained and nearly monochrome, centered on blacks, greys, browns and muted earth tones that allowed the weathered textures to stand out. Stonewashed cottons, aged denim, worn velvet, corduroy and low sheen leather gave the clothes a tactility that supported the impression that they had already lived a life.

This sun faded oversized M65 jacket from Line 10 features a stand collar, a cinchable hem and four large front pockets.

Tagged Size IT48

Measurements: 
Shoulders 48cm
Length 78cm
Chest 53cm
Hem 52cm
Sleeve length 68cm