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SS23 Y/Project Maxi Cuff Western Cowboy Denim

Y/Project was founded in Paris in 2010 by Yohan Serfaty with co-founder Gilles Elalouf as a men’s label rooted in somber, goth-leaning menswear. Serfaty’s vision was marked by sharp tailoring, heavy leathers, and an underlying brooding mood that defined the house before his passing in 2013. Following Serfaty’s death, Belgian designer Glenn Martens, a Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp graduate and former Gaultier alum, was appointed creative director. Steering Y/Project away from darkness toward wit and experimentation that spanned both menswear and womenswear.

Adopting a wunderkind approach, Martens introduced convertible construction, twisted pattern cutting, and a deliberate war on symmetry. Historical and cultural references, from medieval armor to Baroque painting, informed garments that were modular, exaggerated, and often reconfigurable. Jackets sprouted multiple collars, jeans carried detachable waistbands, and seams spiraled around bodies in ways that challenged the eye.

Under Martens, Y/Project was shortlisted for the LVMH Prize and won the ANDAM Grand Prize in 2017, later receiving additional ANDAM support in 2020. His leadership democratized conceptual design by placing advanced cutting into denim, hoodies, and boots. Viral moments amplified this vision: the thigh-high UGGs debuted in Fall 2018 went global, while spiral jeans and the “janties” circulated widely online. Marten proved that conceptual fashion could thrive outside of rarefied circles.

The story unraveled in 2024 with the passing of co-founder Gilles Elalouf, the CEO’s departure, and Martens’s resignation. The company entered receivership that September, was put up for sale in October, and by early 2025 closure was confirmed. The end marked the loss of one of Paris’s most adventurous independent houses, yet its legacy endures.

This pair of denim from SS23 features embroidered, modular western cuffs first explored in AW21. The design allows the pants to be converted into shorts, reflecting Martens’s fascination with garments that transform in both form and function.

 

Measurements

Waist: 41cm

Front rise: 34cm

Inseam: 88cm

Thighs: 29cm

Hem: 28cm

Length: 118cm

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