For Maison Margiela’s Spring/Summer 2022 Ready-to-Wear collection, John Galliano continues his vision of the “new utopian youth,” a group of shipwreck survivors first introduced in his 2021 Artisanal presentation. Both collections explore themes of post-pandemic youth, environmental awareness, optimism for future, and the fluid relationship between nature, time, and identity.
Hallmarks from his last Haute Couture were translated into a ready-to-wear lineup filled with romantic-utilitarian textures, reimagined silhouettes, and references to traditional fishermen’s attire. The collection balances theatrical storytelling with material experimentation, offering garments that are both technical and poetic.
Departing from conventional runway formats, the collection debuted in a 14-minute narrative film directed by Olivier Dahan, the Oscar-winning filmmaker who also directed Margiela’s previous season’s 70 minutes film. This short cinematic piece further grounds the collection in myth-making and melancholia, set against an apocalyptic backdrop.
In the film, models donned fishing inspired garments. Jackets constructed from tea-towels bandanas, sailor collars, and coats adorned with feathered fishing lures, and braided gray herringbone strips resembling a net. Reinterpretations of historical dress were also present, including high-waisted Dutch-boy trousers, cotton sou’westers, and wide-brimmed 17th-century Flemish hats.
Amidst the highly intricate, sea-weathered looks, Galliano introduced a series of 3D-printed, biodegradable molded rubber Tabi footwear in bright red, yellow, and blue. The Tabi shoes were released in three iterations: Heels, Oxfords, and Waders. These yellow tabi boots features a pressure pin closure and a 3-inch heel.
Tagged Size 36
