SS20 Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme x Yuuka Asakura Cropped Pants

Born in Tokyo in 1988, Yuuka Asakura is a contemporary painter known for her dynamic and abstract style that’s reminiscent of Fauvism. Since Spring/Summer 2016, her vivid brushstrokes have colored Yamamoto’s typically monochromatic universe.  

In Yohji Yamamoto’s world, beauty often emerges from disorder, imbalance, and uncertainty — and nowhere is that clearer than in his Spring/Summer 2020 Pour Homme collection. Backstage, Yohji remarked, “The earth is going to be crazy, really crazy.” His words read like a premonition. Spoken months before a global pandemic, yet reflective of a world already unraveling due to political unrest, environmental deterioration, and rising societal anxiety.

The garments’ proportions were unruly and distorted. Coats dragged heavily like cloaks, shirting extended well past the waist like tunics, and trousers were cropped and raw-hemmed, hanging loose and unfinished. Words such as “I hold you, you hold me,” were scrawled across garments, further suggesting themes of vulnerability and codependence in an unstable world.

Beyond the surface, the collection’s deeper subversion lay in how it blurred the lines of gendered dress. While Yohji’s signature militaristic silhouettes, relaxed tailoring, and heavy (yet flowy) fabrics remained intact, there was a noticeable shift toward ambiguity and androgyny. Flowing layers moved beyond the binary of “masculine” or “feminine,” questioning the rigid codes of clothing and the societal structures they reflect.

This pair of cropped trousers opened the show, styled in a look defined by mismatched proportions: tall shaft boots, a massively draped coat, and a long shirt beyond the waist. The trousers feature large, hand-painted brushstrokes in faded yellow and green, while thin, bold yellow lines outline a hand reaching out to a woman. Additional design details include zippered pockets and a velcro-cinched leg opening.

Tagged Size 2

Measurements:

Waist: 39cm

Rise: 36cm

Inseam: 40cm

Length: 76cm

Leg opening: 17cm