Yohji Yamamoto’s Spring/Summer 2012 menswear collection was a celebration of cultural fusion. Drawing inspiration from diverse traditions, the collection incorporated Japanese elements, such as wide pleated Hakama trousers, which have since become a signature silhouette for the brand. Alongside these billowing culottes were Napoleon-inspired jackets, Western-style chaps, Amish-influenced hats, styled in a distinct Japanese cowboy aesthetic.
The color palette took a particularly striking turn from Yohji’s dark palette. Shades like bright red, azure, forest green, and cobalt accompanied his usual monochromatic colors. Adding a vibrant dynamism to the silhouette-emphasized designs.
A recurring motif throughout the collection was patchwork paneling, inspired by Pablo Picasso’s Cubist movement. Cubism had been a significant influence on Yohji as early as AW91. These playful, abstract panels served as a homage to Picasso’s short-lived, geometrically driven, anti-conformist style.
This jacket features the aforementioned Cubism-inspired patchwork panels. The varying intersecting shapes and range of muted green tones create depth and subtle contrast, making the piece both versatile and distinctive.
