Labels are transient. The elusive and seemingly invisible Martin Margiela wanted his consumers to develop a genuine appreciation for his garments rather than be consumed by sigils. The signature four diagonal stitches affixed to his iconic banal white tags were deliberately loose, designed to be pulled off entirely.
For years, his tags were just—blank. This detail reflected the his personal ideology of anonymity. Margiela refused interviews, avoided the spotlight, and likewise obscured the faces of his models, drawing attention away from the person and solely onto the garments.
In 1997, the brand introduced the numerical label system, ranging from 0 to 23, with each number denoting a specific line. The blank tag was exclusively used for Line 1, Margiela’s womenswear collection, where he consistently pushed boundaries and defied fashion conventions. This remained true until his departure in 2009. Under John Galliano, the blank tag became reserved for “the défilé collection for women,” (from un défiléde mode. translated to: fashion show for women) it’s used to denote pieces from his Haute Couture co-ed shows as well.
This pair of pants, crafted under Margiela’s tenure, features a fitted silhouette and a rayon contrast side seam.
