In 2003, Takahiro Miyashita closed his Tokyo chapter with his legendary Number Nine Spring Summer 2004 "Dream Baby Dream" collection, presented at the Tokyo Tower Parking Center before moving the brand’s presentations to Paris, following in the footsteps of Jun Takahashi.
It is no stranger to anyone that music is central to any Number Nine's show. The SS04 collection name "Dream Baby Dream" came from a 1979 song of the same title. A 6 minute track comes with a distinctive two-chord melancholic hymn that loops endlessly, by New York proto-punk duo, Alan Vega and Martin Rev (whose band name we can't name on socials).
The show opened with The Clash's "London Calling" from their third studio landmark album of the same name. This immediately dates the runway to Britain’s late 70s punk scene, where the youth of Britain were still struggling with inflation, unemployment, and a broader economic decline in the country. While subcultures allowed for individuality as an outlet, they existed against a heavy economic downturn and social instability. This led to a period where alienation loomed, and people found respite in street rebellion before any sense of idealism could even form.
While the collection strongly incorporated punk references, Miyashita was not interested in simply recreating the historical image of punk. Instead, he focused on the confrontation and vulnerability DNA of the punk movement, and the societal tensions that gave it meaning in the first place. In doing so, punk is not treated as an aesthetic to borrow, but as something rooted in a specific emotional and cultural condition, where clothing became a way of responding to the world. Similar to how the post-war revival of Edwardian fashion represented a rejection of rationing and restrictions in Britain.
Paying tribute to The Clash, Miyashita tapped into their wardrobes and deconstructed some of their most iconic looks, recreating some of the most iconic homages such as leather bikers, distressed fishnet knits and military shirts. Leopard prints, Union Jack flags, skull motifs, heavy distressing, DIY motifs, and pins were paired with an ultra-slim, teddy boy silhouette to create not just the best tribute to 70s London punk, but also an emotionally heavy yet hopeful farewell to the brand's Tokyo chapter.
Seen on look 30, this denim vest features distressed arm openings, front pockets & zips, and a distinctive red tab that reads "pain", reminiscent of the Levi's red tab.
Tagged Size 4
Measurements:
Shoulders: 46cm
Length: 75cm
Chest: 53cm
Hem: 53cm