AW93 Helmut Lang Moleskin Double Breasted Jacket

After the heady excess of the 80s, the 90s marked a decisive shift toward fashion that was sharp, industrial, and minimal. At the forefront of this transition was Helmut Lang, a designer whose work redefined the aesthetic of an entire era. 

His garments reflected a world increasingly shaped by the looming presence of technology, and his design language emerged from a personal history rooted in a lack of self-expression and a highly conservative environment.

2004 marked the beginning of the end for Lang. After selling his remaining shares to the Prada Group, the corporation took full control of the brand. A year later, Lang formally departed from his label, citing a fundamental misalignment. While Prada pushed for broader commercial appeal, Lang preferred to keep his designs experimental and conceptually driven. 

Lang believed in the value of archiving and was one of the earliest designers to digitise his collections. Despite this, he was not sentimental about his work. In 2010, he famously destroyed between 6,000 and 8,000 archival pieces that had survived a studio fire, transforming them into resin-bound pillars of shredded garments. Titled “Make it Hard,” these sculptures served as a symbolic and physical break from his past in fashion.

Lang’s Autumn Winter 1993 collection featured his signature “basic but elegant” silhouettes, using luxurious fabrics, sensual layering, and functional cuts. This double breasted jacket from the season features intricately placed darts and is constructed from moleskin. The influence of Lang’s AW93 and beyond remains visible today, with where form and function continue to define contemporary fashion.

Measurements:

Length: 78cm

Shoulders: 39cm

PTP: 45cm

Sleeve: 66cm

Hem: 45cm