Kiko Kostadinov's Autumn/Winter 2023 collection, “Orbit Of Forgotten Desires,” marked his fifteenth outing and reflected a sharper focus on rediscovering overlooked voices in fashion history. The collection drew from four women designers who shaped postwar elegance but later faded from the mainstream canon: Anne-Marie Beretta, Mariuccia Mandelli (Krizia), Irene Lentz, and the Sorelle Fontana sisters.

These references were not replicated literally but were reinterpreted through the house’s framework of modularity, adaptability, and youthful spirit. Kostadinov, alongside collaborators Laura and Deanna Fanning, wove these influences into a contemporary narrative of hidden heritage, reframing forgotten design languages into layered silhouettes with ergonomic details and material contrasts for both menswear and womenswear.

On the runway, this ethos appeared in rounded coats with detachable sections, paneled trousers with knitted inserts, corduroy outerwear with contrast collars, and lattice-trimmed knitwear. Accessories such as crocheted scarves, balaclavas, and structured bags extended the season’s tactile experimentation.

The collection’s academic setting underscored its reflective mood, positioning the clothes as both intellectual exercises and real-world uniforms. Rather than serving as nostalgia, “Orbit Of Forgotten Desires” functioned as a dialogue between forgotten innovation and present urgency.

The Tonkin shoe first appeared in Spring/Summer 2023 “Zlatyu” as an in-house chunky sole silhouette in both low and boot forms, shown in layered block colors and constructed like industrial footwear with no overt branding. Kostadinov reintroduced the Tonkin Strap in Autumn/Winter 2023, constructed from full bovine leather and designed with padded cross-straps over the same two-inch treaded outsole.

Tagged Size EU 44