Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Autumn/Winter 2016 show, aptly titled Armor of Peace, was a quiet yet potent confrontation with the dualities of our time. Nearly a decade later, its relevance endures. This time, her designs spoke to the tension between protection and vulnerability, war and peace, strength and fragility.
Armor, by nature, is a construct of war—meant to endure. But in Kawakubo’s hands, armor was reimagined through the lens of peace. Jackets, trousers, accessories, and footwear were cut and reassembled like panels of Renaissance plate armor, resembling the segmented shells of armadillos, folding around the body like a second skin.
She drew inspiration from historical armor pieces, such as the cuisse, designed to shield the thighs and transforming it from a symbol of battle into an emblem of modern resilience. Historically, armor was not merely utilitarian; it was also a sculpted symbol of seduction and power.
Kawakubo stitched this history into her collection, using silk brocade and wool to craft her modern armor, suggesting an undress that was as much about allure as it was about defense. This sentiment extended to this pair of pants, featuring layered armor-like details at the knees, held together by adjustable straps reminiscent of the cuisse.
The technical execution was as thoughtful as the concept. Kawakubo’s soldiers walked the runway crowned with flowers, a gesture of pacifism blooming through the cracks of war. Juxtaposing conflicts and tranquility, the inclusion of flowers serves as a poignant reminder that beneath the reinforced exterior lies a deep yearning for peace.
Today’s warriors, draped in tailored suits instead of chainmail, clash not with swords but with words, their battlefields the glass and steel of modern cities. Kawakubo took this everyday armor and twisted it, turning traditional forms inside out to champion for peace.
Tagged Size S
Measurements:
Length: 108cm
Waist: 41cm
Rise: 30cm
Thighs: 23cm
Knee: 19cm
Opening: 17cm
