Autumn/Winter 2014 marked a significant turning point for Maison Martin Margiela, as it was the final season to bear the original label before its quiet rebranding to "Maison Margiela," symbolizing a new chapter for the house and the arrival of John Galliano.
Following Martin Margiela’s departure in 2009, the brand was helmed by a team of anonymous in-house designers, adhering to the founder’s ethos of collective creation. Galliano’s appointment brought a dramatic shift, introducing his signature flamboyance to contrast Margiela’s understated “non-standard elegance.” This return marked his comeback after a his exile in 2011 from Dior.
The AW14 womenswear ready-to-wear collection embraced staples from the male wardrobe, reimagined with a softer, more feminine touch. Dresses featured unconventional, masculine elements like zip flies and belt loops, while tweed was prominently used in collaboration with Harris Tweed, famed for its handspun, in-house craftsmanship. Iconic motifs, such as the pagoda shoulders and reconstructed garments pieced together from varied materials, made a subtle return.
In recent fashion news, after a decade-long tenure, Galliano is reportedly set to leave the Maison, signaling yet another shift in creative leadership and the musical chairs of creative director starts to rotate again.
This two piece wool blazer features a reversed construction that breaks traditional formalwear norms. The collar is integrated into the now outer vest, the sleeves are detached and worn on the inside, creating a layered, unconventional silhouette and allowing it to be worn in multiple ways.
Measurements:
Inner vest with sleeves
Chest: 40cm
Shoulder: 41cm
Sleeve: 65cm
Length: 40cm
Vest
Chest: 43cm
Shoulder: 37cm
Sleeve: 0cm
Length: 71cm
