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AW02 Comme Des Garcons Homme Plus “Four Blacks” Red Reversible Distressed Wool Jacket

 

Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Autumn Winter 2002 is remembered for its thematic structure titled “Four Blacks.” Rei Kawakubo divided the presentation into four conceptual groups: Travel, Red and Black, Formal, and Music (旅・赤と黒・フォーマル・音楽).

Each theme used black as a unifying base while exploring different emotional tones, silhouettes, and cultural references. This framework allowed Kawakubo to treat black not as a single color but as a spectrum of moods and functions.

Although documentation is scarce, the “Travel” section leaned into utilitarian shapes and adaptable layering. Garments were built to feel mobile and lived in, as if designed for movement across borders. The focus was on how black can appear practical rather than severe.

In contrast, the “Red and Black” segment pushed chromatic tension further. Red acted almost like a disruption, appearing beneath or beside black in subtle, controlled ways.

“Formal” brought black back to tradition. Tailoring was sharp but not rigid, aligned with Kawakubo’s approach to menswear that respects convention while quietly bending it. The pieces examined how black functions in ceremony, authority, and elegance.

The final theme, “Music,” explored rhythm and performance. Black became expressive rather than subdued. The garments borrowed from the spirit of stagewear, referencing musicians’ uniforms and the energy surrounding live performance.

Through these four interpretations, AW02 demonstrated how a single color can create an entire world when filtered through different ideas. “Four Blacks” remains one of Kawakubo’s clearest studies on the emotional and conceptual range of monochrome dressing.

This reversible jacket features a front with distressed red wool peering through the black weave, and a shiny black cupro reverse side paired with a distressed red wool collar for a more restrained look.

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Tagged Size S

Measurements: 
Shoulders 46cm
Length 76cm
Chest 47cm
Hem 47cm
Sleeve length 65cm

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